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Gordion: Ancient Capital of Phrygia

Burak Plakay by Burak Plakay
August 22, 2025
in Anatolia Archaeology, History, Istanbul Travel Blog, Phrygia, Turkey, Turkey Attractions, Turkey Travel Blog, WATCH
Reading Time: 8 mins read
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Where kings tied impossible knots, where conquerors rewrote destiny, and where archaeologists and storytellers unite—Gordion is not just a ruin, it’s the beating heart of Anatolia’s past.

Table of Contents

Introduction to Gordion

In the heart of central Turkey lies Gordion, once the capital of the Phrygian kingdom and the stage for legends of King Midas and Alexander the Great. But Gordion is more than myths—it is also the story of over a century of archaeology, led most recently by Prof. Dr. Brian Rose and his international team. Thanks to their decades of dedication, the ancient city has been brought back to life, one carefully excavated layer at a time.

The Discovery of Gordion

Gordion first came to modern attention in 1893, when German scholar Alfred Körte, surveying alongside railroad engineers building the Berlin–Baghdad Railway, recognized the site from ancient descriptions. In 1900, Alfred returned with his brother Gustav to lead the first controlled excavations. In just three months, they probed the Citadel Mound and opened five burial mounds. Among these, one mid-8th century BCE tomb yielded stunning grave goods, hinting at the wealth of the Phrygian kings.

Rodney Young and the Mid-20th Century Digs

After decades of silence, Gordion reemerged in 1950, when Rodney S. Young of the University of Pennsylvania launched full-scale excavations. Over 17 seasons until 1973, Young and his team explored the Citadel Mound, the lower town, and more than 30 burial tumuli. His most important discovery was the “destruction level”—an enormous fire around 800 BCE that sealed Phrygian life in time. Burned timbers, charred walls, and intact artifacts preserved an elite quarter of the city like a time capsule.

Young also mapped the tumulus field, including the Midas Mound, which still towers more than 50 meters over the Anatolian plain. These findings firmly established Gordion as one of the most important Iron Age sites in the Near East.

Refinement and New Questions

In the 1970s and 1980s, Keith DeVries continued the project, refining the chronology of Gordion and questioning some of Young’s interpretations.

Later, from 1988 to 2006, directors including Mary Voigt and Kenneth Sams expanded the focus to the lower town, peripheral cemeteries, and settlement patterns, using increasingly sophisticated archaeological methods. Their work broadened the scope from kings and monuments to ordinary life and community.

Brian Rose and the Modern Gordion Project

Since 2007, and officially as director from 2012 onward, Prof. Dr. Brian Rose has guided the Gordion Project into the modern age. With more than four decades of field experience in Turkey—including years excavating at Troy—Rose brought fresh energy and global collaboration to the site.

Phrygian architectural terracotta at Gordion Museum

Under his leadership, archaeologists uncovered the East Citadel Gate, still preserved at 10 meters high, and traced monumental approach roads that framed the city’s ceremonial heart. Conservation has been a major priority: stabilizing fragile burned stones, preserving architectural terracottas, and protecting organic finds such as wood and textiles.

Rose’s vision has also been outward-facing. He emphasizes public education, rapid publication of results, and conservation for the future. Today, more than half the excavation team is Turkish, joined by American, European, and international specialists, making Gordion feel like a “miniature United Nations” of archaeology.

In 2023, after decades of excavation and conservation, Gordion was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site—a milestone achievement that crowns the long journey from forgotten mound to recognized treasure.

The Physical Layout of Gordion

Gordion, the legendary capital of the Phrygians, is a site of immense historical and archaeological significance, lying about 90 kilometers southwest of Ankara along the Sakarya River.

Physically, the city is defined by its imposing citadel mound, once fortified with massive stone-and-mudbrick walls nearly nine meters thick, and home to palaces, megarons, storerooms, and administrative halls. 

Surrounding the citadel stretched the lower town, with workshops, houses, and traces of daily life, all protected by additional outer fortifications. Scattered across the landscape are more than a hundred burial mounds (tumuli), the most famous being Tumulus MM, a colossal 53-meter-high mound believed to hold the burial of King Midas or his father, containing a wooden chamber and lavish grave goods. Together with its fertile plains, river access, and location at a major crossroads of Anatolia, Gordion stood as both a powerful Phrygian capital and a lasting symbol of Anatolian civilization.

Gordion’s Timeless Legacy

Gordion’s significance lies not only in its myths but in its lived history. The Phrygians stood at the crossroads of East and West, shaping a culture influenced by Greece, Urartu, Assyria, and beyond. Their city walls, monumental gates, and towering burial mounds still dominate the Sakarya plain.

Gordion was a fortified citadel city with elite palaces on the mound, an extensive lower town for ordinary life and production, monumental burial mounds for royalty, and strategic positioning along Anatolia’s trade and military routes.

The Gordian Knot, famously cut by Alexander in 333 BCE, remains a metaphor for bold solutions. The Midas Mound reminds us of royal ambition and human mortality. And the charred remains of the destruction level give us an intimate view of daily life, frozen in time.

The Significance of Gordion and Phrygians

Gordion’s significance lies not only in its monuments and myths but also in its role as the capital of the Phrygians, a people who rose in the aftermath of the Late Bronze Age Collapse. As the mighty Hittite Empire and Luwian city-states crumbled around 1200 BCE, the Phrygians — possibly migrants from the Balkans — established themselves in central Anatolia, filling the vacuum with a new and dynamic culture. At Gordion, they built massive fortifications, royal palaces, and tumuli that still dominate the landscape, while their language, intriguingly closer to Greek than to Anatolian tongues like Luwian, set them apart as cultural outsiders who blended seamlessly into local traditions.

Legends of King Midas and the Gordian Knot ensured their place in mythology, but archaeology reveals a deeper truth: Gordion was both a crossroads of civilizations and a testament to resilience after collapse, where a new people transformed Anatolia’s shattered world into something enduring.

Touring Gordion with The Other Tour

At The Other Tour, we believe archaeology is not just about stones and ruins—it’s about people and their stories. Our hand-picked professional guides, many with backgrounds in archaeology and history, make sites like Gordion come alive.

A visit begins in Yassıhöyük village at the Gordion Museum, where artifacts unearthed by generations of archaeologists—including Brian Rose’s team—are on display. From there, we guide you up the Citadel Mound, through the monumental East Gate, and onto the burial mounds that watch over the plain. Along the way, you’ll hear not just of Midas and Alexander, but also of the archaeologists who gave their lives’ work to bring this ancient city back into the world’s memory.

We often pair Gordion with Ankara’s Museum of Anatolian Civilizations or even journeys to Hattusa, Cappadocia, or Konya, giving you a broader view of Anatolia’s archaeological wonders.

Tags: Ancient CityAncient CivilizationsArchaeologyHistoric LandmarksHistoryTurkeyTurkey Travel
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Burak Plakay

Burak Plakay

Licensed Istanbul Guide | Conversational Historian | Intuitive Storyteller Born and raised in Istanbul with proud Albanian roots, Burak brings the city’s heartbeat to life—not through rehearsed scripts, but through lived experience, neighborhood tales, and sharp improvisation. He blends a scholar’s curiosity with a comedian’s timing, making history feel relatable and irrepressibly alive. Fluent, intuitive, and endlessly empathetic, he adjusts to each group’s energy—whether you’re a bustling family or a quiet couple, he senses your pace. Burak doesn’t just guide—he listens, adapts, and stays with you for as long as the journey resonates. His debut blog post on Gordion ventures beyond Istanbul to explore one of Türkiye’s oldest archaeological marvels, weaving together myth, ancient power, and the enduring legacies hidden in the landscape.

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