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Kanlica – Yogurt by the Bosphorus

Where Yogurt Meets the Bosphorus and Time Slows Down

Soner Dursun by Soner Dursun
March 31, 2025
in Bosphorus, Istanbul Food, Istanbul Neighborhoods, Istanbul Travel Blog, The Other Tour, Turkey Travel Blog, Turkish Food
Reading Time: 11 mins read
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Some neighborhoods in Istanbul are synonymous with specific vibes. Say Beyoğlu, and you think of nightlife. Mention Sultanahmet, and carpet sellers come to mind. Say Kanlıca, and it’s all about that famous Turkish yogurt.

Table of Contents

Introduction to Kanlica

Turks and Greeks have long—and often passionately—argued over the origins of beloved foods—baklava, dolma, tzatziki, you name it. But when it comes to yogurt, there’s no debate—etymologically speaking, the word is unmistakably Turkish.

“Yogurt” comes directly from the Turkish yoğurt, which in turn is derived from yoğurmak, meaning to knead or to blend. It’s one of the few Turkish words that has been adopted into English and used globally with almost no change.

Tucked along the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, Kanlıca is more than a neighborhood—it’s a quiet revelation. A place where the city’s rush fades into the sea’s shimmer, where old mansions whisper of sultans, and yogurt becomes a ritual.

History of Kanlica

Kanlıca’s roots stretch back to ancient times, when it was known as Glarus or Elasos. Though a quiet inlet during the Byzantine era, it gained real prominence under the Ottomans. In the 16th century, Ottoman judge İskender Pasha commissioned a mosque and civic complex in the heart of the village. The mosque—still standing today near the ferry pier—is believed to be the work of Mimar Sinan, the empire’s greatest architect.

By the 18th and 19th centuries, Kanlıca became a retreat for Ottoman elites, who built grand wooden mansions (yalı) along the waterfront. Some of these, like the Hekimbaşı Salih Efendi Yalısı and the Amcazade Köprülü Hüseyin Pasha Yalısı, still stand today, offering a glimpse into the grandeur of the past.The village also became famous for its yogurt, a tradition started by Balkan immigrants in the late 1800s. Their thick, tangy yogurt—often topped with powdered sugar—quickly became a local legend, drawing visitors from all over the city.

Despite modern development, Kanlıca has held onto its old-world charm. Narrow streets, historic yalıs, tea gardens, and ferryboats keep its identity intact. It’s not just a pretty face—Kanlıca is a living piece of Bosphorus history, offering visitors a peaceful step back in time.

What To Do in Kanlica

Kanlıca is not a checklist. It’s not “things to do.” It’s about how you just enjoy yourself and take a little walk around:

  • Order tea at the waterfront café. Watch the ferries drift in and out like slow-moving thoughts. Add a bowl of that legendary yogurt, topped with powdered sugar, if you know what’s good for you.
  • Stroll along the shore toward Çubuklu, counting seagulls or your breaths—whichever slows you down first.
  • Climb up Hacı Muhittin Sokak, a quiet street tucked behind the square. You can loop back to the water from there, or keep going—uphill through Yahya Kemal Beyatlı Sokak, then Hacı Osman Bey Sokak, and down via Mihrabat Caddesi. The views along the way are quiet little rewards.
  • And if you’re really feeling adventurous, cross the Bosphorus to the northern shore and make your way to Sadberk Hanım Museum in Büyükdere. Owned by the Koç family, it’s one of Istanbul’s best-kept secrets—home to an exquisite collection of Ottoman textiles, ceramics, and archaeological treasures. A museum that actually feels like a home.

And if you’re with us on The Other Tour, you’ll do all this with a story in your ear, a local by your side, and maybe a poem from Ömer—or a surprise from Damla—in your pocket.

A Family Tradition by the Sea: Tarihi Kanlıca Dondurma Cafe

Right across from the ferry dock sits the Tarihi Kanlıca Dondurma Cafe—a low-key, family-run spot that quietly holds the crown for the best yogurt in Kanlıca.

Confession time: for years, we went to the waterfront yogurt place like total amateurs. It looked the part, had the view, the powdered sugar, the vibe. But in 2023, we finally stumbled into the real deal—this small café run by the actual family behind the Kanlıca Yogurt brand. And honestly? Everything changed.Owned by Mr. Uğur and his daughter Ms. Ceylan, this humble little shop isn’t just another café—it’s the heart of the operation. And here’s the kicker: they keep the best yogurt for themselves. We’re talking manda yoğurdu—made with rich, velvety water buffalo milk. It’s thick, tangy, and a total game-changer.And don’t sleep on the ice cream. They make their own, in small batches, with seasonal ingredients and serious love. Rose, mulberry, tahini, pistachio—it’s all handmade and ridiculously good.

At The Other Tour, this place is now a sacred stop. It’s where stories get swapped between spoonfuls, and where tradition isn’t something for tourists—it’s alive, fresh, and sitting right there behind the counter.

How to Get to Kanlica

Getting to Kanlıca is part of the adventure, and luckily, there are several scenic ways to reach this charming Bosphorus neighborhood.

Bosphorus public ferries are frequent and an experience in an of themselves.

By Ferry

Public ferries run regularly from both Üsküdar and Beykoz, making Kanlıca an easy and picturesque stop along the Bosphorus. There’s even a lesser-known ferry from Anadolu Kavağı that departs daily at 2:30 PM, offering a unique route from the northern end of the strait.

Ferry Times: Üsküdar ⇄ Anadolu Kavağı

Operated by: Şehir Hatları

Route:
Üsküdar → Beylerbeyi → Çengelköy → Anadolu Hisarı → Kanlıca → Çubuklu → Paşabahçe → Beykoz → Anadolu Kavağı

From Üsküdar From Kanlıca From Anadolu Kavağı
11:35 AM 12:15 PM 7:00 AM
1:45 PM 2:25 PM 7:25 AM
2:05 PM 2:45 PM 7:30 AM
4:15 PM 4:55 PM 8:45 AM
5:10 PM 5:50 PM 2:30 PM
5:45 PM 6:25 PM 3:40 PM
6:20 PM 7:00 PM 4:00 PM
7:10 PM 7:50 PM 5:45 PM

⏱️ Duration: Approximately 50 minutes from Uskudar or Anadolu Kavagi to get to Kanlica by ferry.

Water Shuttle From Emirgan

For something truly special, you can take a small boat ride from Emirgan across the water. It’s one of the most delightful and unique cross-strait trips you can take on the Bosphorus.

By Bus

If you’re coming from the Asian side, several buses pass through Kanlıca from central hubs like Üsküdar and Kadıköy. Just hop on a bus heading toward Beykoz, and you’ll be there in no time.

Get Fancy with us

Or better yet, book a private cruise with The Other Tour and sail up the Bosphorus, past the domes and palaces, past the crowds, past the noise. As the skyline melts into forested hills and wooden mansions, you’ll know you’re close. And then, like an exhale, Kanlıca appears: quiet, poised, and beautifully unbothered by the urgency of the modern world.

The Other Tour Stops Here

We don’t include Kanlıca in our itinerary because it’s famous. We stop here because it’s real.

Because it gives travelers something rare: a quiet moment that doesn’t feel staged. A place where locals still greet each other by name, where waiters are never in a hurry, where the city exhales and lets you breathe with it.And after all the depth and energy of the day—after school visits, rooftop views, street markets, and home-cooked meals—Kanlıca is where we let things settle.

It’s not the climax. It’s the silence after the music. And that, in itself, is part of the song.

Join Us—And Taste a Different Istanbul

If you’d like to experience Kanlıca the way we do—not through guidebooks or rushed itineraries, but through stories, tastes, and shared moments—come with us.

We stop here not to take pictures.
We stop here to remember how beautiful it feels to slow down.

Tags: BosphorusIstanbulIstanbul travelIstanbul TripIstanbul VisitneighborhoodsTurkish CuisineTurkish CultureWater
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Soner Dursun

Soner Dursun

Soner Dursun, co-founder of The Other Tour, has been shaping its unique approach since 2011. With a strong background in hotel management, he ensures seamless operations and top-tier hospitality, bringing a keen eye for detail and a deep understanding of guest satisfaction. Born and raised in the Black Sea region, he carries its renowned resourcefulness and charm, making every experience with The Other Tour feel warm and welcoming. A lifelong football enthusiast, Soner’s passion for the game matches his energy for crafting meaningful connections. Whether on the pitch or sharing stories over tea, his competitive spirit and love for teamwork shine through. His lifelong friendship with Fethi, built since childhood, is the foundation of their collaboration. Together, they have grown The Other Tour into a travel agency known for organizing unique tours in Istanbul and across Turkey, driven by authenticity, adventure, and Soner’s vibrant leadership.

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