The Binbirdirek Cistern, also known as the Cistern of Philoxenos, is the second-largest ancient underground water reservoir in Istanbul.
Introduction to Binbirdirek (Philoxenos)
Cistern of Philoxenos dates back to the 5th century AD, making it one of the oldest cisterns in Istanbul still accessible to visitors today. Built during the reign of Emperor Constantine the Great and later renovated under Emperor Justinian I, this Byzantine marvel lies just steps from the Hippodrome and Sultanahmet Square.
With its forest of 224 marble columns, Binbirdirek offers visitors a quieter, more intimate alternative to the Basilica Cistern while preserving the same sense of awe and mystery beneath the streets of the old city.
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Origins of the Cistern of Philoxenos
Binbirdirek Cistern lies hidden beneath Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet district. It sits between what was once the great Forum of Constantine and the legendary Hippodrome of Constantinople.
While historical tradition links its construction to the 4th century by a Roman senator named Philoxenos under Constantine I, architectural and archaeological evidence indicate that the cistern was actually built in the mid-5th to 6th century.
The Turkish name “Binbirdirek” literally means “1001 columns,” an old expression symbolizing a countless multitude. The cistern doesn’t actually contain a thousand pillars. Yet walking among its 224 marble columns feels like stepping into a boundless underground palace.
Binbirdirek is about half the size of the Basilica Cistern. Serving the Hippodrome, it was built on relatively high ground and supplied by the Valens Aqueduct.
The Role of Water in Constantinople
Constantinople, the crown jewel of the Byzantine Empire, had nearly everything an imperial capital could desire — commanding walls, bustling harbors, lavish palaces, and spiritual grandeur. But it lacked one essential ingredient: fresh water.
To solve this, the city’s rulers engineered one of the most extensive water supply systems of the ancient world, channeling water from springs in Thrace, nearly 130 miles to the west, into the heart of the city. Through aqueducts, channels, and vast underground cisterns, they created an artificial lifeline that kept the metropolis alive.
Binbirdirek Cistern was part of this extensive water system that kept Constantinople alive. With few natural sources, the city relied on rainwater and aqueducts to fill its underground reservoirs. As the second-largest cistern after the Basilica Cistern, Binbirdirek played a crucial role in supplying palaces and public life.
Many historians believe it was built beneath the Palace of Antiochos, making it both a reservoir and a palace foundation. In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian renovated it after the great fire of 475, ensuring it served the city through Byzantine and Ottoman times.
A Hidden Gem Rediscovered
Standing in Binbirdirek’s twilight today, it’s easy to feel the weight of ages. While Yerebatan Sarnıcı – the Basilica Cistern – with its famous Medusa heads often steals the spotlight, the Binbirdirek Cistern carries an aura of the undiscovered. It sat overlooked for years, earning it a reputation as a “hidden gem”. This relative obscurity means that its stories remained quietly preserved, waiting for curious souls to rediscover them anew.
Descending into the Depths: A Cultural Journey in Binbirdirek Today
Today, visitors walk on wooden pathways between the cistern’s 224 marble columns, arranged in 14 rows of 16. Many of these still carry Greek mason’s marks, carved by artisans more than 1,500 years ago. Each column, originally 12–15 meters high, is joined by stone collars that remain visible today. You can still see modern reinforcements, a reminder of how the structure has been strengthened for use today. Overhead, the brick vaults form precise geometric patterns, and the space retains its quiet, cool atmosphere that once made it an essential reservoir for Constantinople.
A Venue for Today
What distinguishes Binbirdirek from the more famous Basilica Cistern is its calmer atmosphere. While the Basilica often attracts long queues, Binbirdirek typically allows for a quieter visit, giving guests more space to absorb the architecture.
Beyond its role as a historical site, the cistern regularly hosts concerts, exhibitions, and private events that take advantage of its acoustics and dramatic atmosphere. These uses keep the space active in Istanbul’s cultural life while its architectural character is carefully preserved.
We strongly oppose the use of historic spaces like the Binbirdirek Cistern for concerts, as the powerful vibrations pose serious risks to the integrity of the structure.
Layers of History Beneath Your Feet
Visiting Binbirdirek gives you a deeper appreciation for Istanbul’s layers. Above ground the city holds Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Ottoman, and modern Turkish history. Beneath your feet, those layers merge in one space. It reminds us that Istanbul’s true magic often lies hidden beneath the surface. The cistern is a literal undercurrent of cultures that form the city’s foundation.
Exploring the Surroundings
Above ground, a world of history awaits just footsteps from Binbirdirek: Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Basilica Cistern.
Binbirdirek Cistern’s entrance is unassuming on a side street (İmran Öktem Sokak), but once you emerge, you’re right in the heart of old Constantinople. A short stroll leads you to the Hippodrome’s remaining monuments and to other underground wonders like the smaller Şerefiye (Theodosius) Cistern just a few blocks away.
Visiting Binbirdirek Cistern: Practical Tips
Visiting Binbirdirek is both exciting and comfortable – it’s a well-maintained site, but a little planning will help you get the most out of it. Here are some tips and insights to enrich your experience:
- Best Time to Visit: This cistern is always empty – you may go whenever you like.
- What to Bring: Bring a camera or phone with good low-light settings. Use night mode instead of flash.
- What to Avoid: Don’t rush through the visit. The cistern is best enjoyed slowly, taking in the details. Keep voices low, as even whispers carry in the acoustics.
- Insider Tip – Engage with the Space: Look for mason’s marks carved into the columns by Byzantine stonecutters — a small but fascinating detail.
Conclusion
Let’s face it: Binbirdirek Cistern can’t be compared to the Basilica Cistern as the Basilica is far superior in every criteria.
A visit to Binbirdirek Cistern doesn’t take long, but it leaves an impression. Unlike the Basilica Cistern, it feels calmer and more understated — and that is part of its appeal. You can see the columns up close, notice the mason’s marks, and move through the space without feeling rushed by large crowds. It is one of those places that helps you connect with Istanbul’s history in a direct, unpolished way. If you have time in Sultanahmet, it’s worth stepping inside for a moment of quiet that brings you closer to the city’s past.
