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Introduction to the Chess Culture in Istanbul
On The Other Tour, we delight in the traditional Turkish game ‘OKEY‘, a cherished part of our itinerary. Yet, when the day concludes or a spare moment arises, our collective passion turns to chess, a game that captivates our minds and unites us like a family. Long has it been since we’ve discussed this enthralling pastime, and the time is ripe to delve into the vibrant world of chess in Istanbul.
Istanbul, the city where East meets West, is known for its rich history, mouth-watering cuisine, and vibrant culture. Yet, there’s another intriguing aspect of Istanbul that often remains in the shadows, waiting to be discovered: its love for the game of chess. This blog post will take you on a journey through the history of chess in Istanbul (and Turkey), the chess clubs you can visit, and cafes where you can enjoy a game over a cup of Turkish tea.
First Things First: Historical Backgroung
While it’s not accurate to say there is a universal prejudice against chess in the Middle East, there have been instances where religious authorities in some countries have questioned the game. For example, in 2016, Saudi Arabia’s grand mufti issued a religious edict, or fatwa, declaring chess to be forbidden because it was considered a form of gambling. However, this view is not universally accepted among Muslims or in all Middle Eastern countries.
Turkey, as a secular republic with a predominantly Muslim population, presents a unique case. Chess is generally well-regarded in Turkey, and the country has produced several world-class players. The Turkish Chess Federation is an active body that promotes the game and organizes national and international tournaments. The popularity of chess in Turkey can be seen in its integration into the school system, with chess being part of the curriculum in primary schools since 2005. Thus, one could argue that Turkey is an exception in this context (besides Iran and Azerbaijan), demonstrating a strong support for chess that contrasts with any negative attitudes that may exist elsewhere in the region.
Chess in Turkey
Chess, or “Satranç” as it is known in Turkish, has a rich history in Turkey that dates back to the time of the Islamic expansion. As a country that straddles both Europe and Asia, Turkey has seen a number of cultural influences shape its chess traditions, leading to a vibrant chess culture that continues to thrive today.
While the precise origins of chess in Turkey are hard to pin down, it is believed to have been introduced during the Islamic expansion in the 7th century. The game was popular among the Ottoman elites, where it was seen as a way to exercise the mind and develop strategic thinking. It was during the Ottoman Empire, especially in the 15th century, that chess became a popular pastime.
Modern Chess Scene: Turkey’s new chess superstars
In the modern era, chess in Turkey has seen significant growth and development. The establishment of the Turkish Chess Federation in 1954 marked a turning point, helping to structure and popularize the game nationwide. The federation is affiliated with FIDE, the international chess federation, and organizes a variety of tournaments for different age groups and skill levels.
Turkish chess has long had respected masters and strong teams, but the last few years have created a new kind of excitement—because the stars are so young, and their rise has been so fast.
Yağız Kaan Erdoğmuş
Yağız is the kind of player who makes people in cafés stop mid-conversation to watch a phone screen. He’s part of a generation that grew up with online chess, engines, and global competition—yet still represents a distinctly Turkish enthusiasm: intense focus, then instant warmth after the game.
Magnus Carlsen, arguably the greatest chess player of all time, praised GM Erdogmuş‘s incredibly promising performance.
Ediz Gürel
Ediz has become another name you’ll hear again and again—especially among serious players. His progress has helped energize local training culture, and in Istanbul he’s often mentioned as proof that Turkey’s chess future is not just “promising,” but already here.
Why this matters for travelers:
Even if you’re not following elite tournaments, these names have become part of local chess conversation. Mentioning them is a surprisingly good way to connect with Istanbul players—especially in Kadıköy, where chess talk is common.
GM Vahap Sanal, for example, is frequently seen in the upper echelons of international chess community during online tournaments on chess.com, the most popular chess platform in the world.
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The History of Chess in Istanbul
Although the exact period when chess was first played in Istanbul is difficult to ascertain, historical records suggest that it became a popular pastime among the Ottomans in the 15th century.
Since then, chess has been a subtle but integral part of Istanbul’s social fabric. The Ottoman elites would often engage in friendly chess games, which were considered a way to exercise the mind and cultivate strategic thinking.
The 20th century marked a turning point in the history of chess in Istanbul. The formation of the Turkish Chess Federation in 1954 helped popularize the game, giving it a more structured form. Today, Istanbul hosts several national and international chess tournaments, highlighting its deep-rooted connection with the game.
Chess Education
Chess is also an important part of the educational system in Turkey. In 2005, the Turkish Ministry of National Education made chess a part of the school curriculum. Thus, chess has become a serious pillar of “learning-by-thinking” in Türkiye—especially through school-based programs that treat the game as more than a hobby. In practice, what many educators call “Satranç Destekli Eğitim” is an approach: using chess as a structured tool to develop planning, decision-making, patience, attention, and problem-solving—skills that transfer cleanly into classroom life.
Institutionally, the big shift is that chess is no longer “extra-curricular by default.” Turkey’s Ministry of National Education and the Turkish Chess Federation (TSF) have repeatedly formalized cooperation to expand chess in schools and train educators (e.g., protocols focused on supporting teachers and school administrators with chess education). And the Ministry has also published an official Chess Course Curriculum (“Satranç Dersi Öğretim Programı”), covering levels from pre-school upward—signaling chess as a teachable subject with learning outcomes, not just a club activity.
Where You Can Play Proper Chess in Istanbul
There are chess clubs and serious institutions but here, we will list the kinds of cool spots where a tourist can spontaneously show up and find a game of chess. Our initiatives that organize chess tournaments regularly!
Satranç İstanbul
If you’re an advanced player, look no further than SatrancIstanbul.com and their lovely café in Yeldeğirmeni in Kadikoy. The guys here are fun and good at chess!
Zienz Chess
ZienzChess (zienzchess.club) is a community + event platform for in-person chess meetups in Istanbul, built around playing chess in cafés/venues with a social vibe (their tagline is essentially “chess, chat, fun”).
I joined one of their blitz tournaments back in August 2025 and luckily won!
Cafés with Chess Sets
In Istanbul, chess is not just confined to clubs and tournaments. It’s woven into the fabric of daily life. Several cafés dotted around the city offer chess sets, inviting patrons to enjoy a strategic game amidst the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the soft murmur of conversations.
Cuppa
Cuppa, nestled in the heart of Cihangir, Istanbul, is a charming and inviting café that opens its doors to chess enthusiasts. This quaint spot is known for its warm and welcoming ambiance, making it an ideal place to savor a cup of quality coffee while engaging in a strategic battle on the chessboard.
Address: Cihangir, Yeni Yuva Sk. No:22, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
Ağa Bilardo Cafe
Known for its billiards, this welcoming spot in Cihangir also caters to chess enthusiasts. It offers an energetic atmosphere that combines the thrill of sports with the strategic beauty of chess.
Address: Kuloğlu, Taktaki Ykş. No:2/A, 34433 Beyoğlu/İstanbul
Küff Cafe
Located in the vibrant Yeldeğirmeni neighborhood of Kadıköy, Küff Cafe offers a unique blend of art, music, and chess, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking a stimulating environment.
Address: Rasimpaşa, Karakolhane Cd. No:54, 34716 Kadıköy/İstanbul
Papel Karaköy
Located in the vibrant neighborhood of Karaköy in Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, Papel Karaköy is a charming cafe and restaurant tucked away in a cozy corner. As you stroll through the bustling streets, you’ll be drawn to the inviting chessboards displayed on the tables, encouraging spontaneous games.
In addition to board games, particularly chess, the establishment offers a variety of snacks, breakfast options, and hookah, all of which can be enjoyed in either an open or enclosed setting.
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All these spots offer the chance to immerse yourself in Istanbul’s unique chess culture, providing the perfect backdrop for an engaging encounter with locals over a game of chess. Each offers its own unique atmosphere, but they all share a love of the game. So, make your move and experience chess like a true Istanbulite!
And even if you can’t make it here physically, we can always a game online on Lichess. Here’s my latest bookmarked game 🙂
Let's Get a Little Personal
My name is Fethi, founder of this blog. I’m 37 years old now and my introduction to chess started 23 years ago in high school. Back then, we just played at school among friends and didn’t think too much of it.
But about 10 years ago, my older brother Murat moved back to Istanbul from Amsterdam where he lived for more than a decade. And while he was there, he completely fell in love with chess and after his return, I was also hooked forever.
The last 5 years or so, chess has become my main hobby. I usually play for hours every single day! Usually online, over at LiChess.org.
So if you love chess as much as we do, both me and my brother would love to meet up and play – so just fill in the form below and let’s get in touch.
Coming to Istanbul for a few days next week (Friday- Monday) on the way to Uganda. I live in Baltimore Maryland. Would love to meett up and play some chess and drink coffee. I am around 1200 on chess.com.
Hey Wesley, thank you so much for reaching out. I’ve already replied on WhatsApp. I hope you make a booking on our AirBnb tour and we can explore the Asian Side’s thriving chess scene.