Some travelers you never forget. Steven Buda is one of them.
Steven first joined The Other Tour nearly ten years ago, back when he was a wide-eyed explorer eager to dive deep into Istanbul’s culture. He left such an impression on us that we always hoped he’d return — and this year, he finally did. Only this time, he brought someone new: his girlfriend, Melanie.
From the very first day, it felt less like a tour and more like old friends picking up where we left off.
Day 1 (April 15th) – Coffee, Crowds & Bohemian Vibes
It was a crisp, nippy morning in Karaköy when Fethi and Ömer met Steven and Melanie outside the Burdock Hotel Istanbul, Autograph Collection. Instead of rushing into sightseeing, we did what Istanbulites do best: we slowed down. The four of us tucked into a little café for steaming cups of Turkish coffee — Steven slipping right back into the ritual he remembered, Melanie tasting it for the first time.
From there, we wandered through the shiny new Galataport, strolling the promenade as the Bosphorus breathed beside us. Soon enough, we were in a cab climbing up to İstiklal Avenue, where the neon buzz and street music turned nightfall into a festival.
We ended up in Pera for dinner — the atmosphere was perfect, the food… less so (we’ll be polite and skip the restaurant’s name). But the night wasn’t finished. Some expat friends were gathering at a bar in Cihangir, and Steven and Melanie were more than game. We joined, and well… the rest of the night got wild. That’s where the story of Day 1 ends. 😉
Day 2 (April 16th) – Archaeology, Tulips & Water
Day 2 began with a change of pace. This time, we introduced Steven and Melanie to Damla Arslan, one of Istanbul’s best professional guides — and an archaeologist by training. Damla has that rare gift of making every stone talk, peeling back the layers of the Old Town until history feels alive again. Steven asked sharp questions, Melanie snapped sharp photos, and by the end of the morning, they were moving like old friends through centuries of empire.
But Istanbul is never just one thing. The afternoon found us in Ortaköy, sipping drinks by the water, letting Steven drift with his camera while Melanie enjoyed the Bosphorus breeze. Then came Arnavutköy, where we slid into Eggon for flaky croissants and strong coffee. My personal favorite, the Lord Mushroom (stuffed with mushrooms, eggs, and cheese), stole the show.
Fueled up, we walked along the Bosphorus to Bebek, with Damla narrating the mansions and the shoreline’s hidden histories. And just when we thought the day was winding down, we found ourselves in Emirgan, swallowed up by the riot of color that is the Tulip Festival. Steven’s camera nearly overheated.
The sun grew hotter, so naturally the solution was… a boat. Only this wasn’t the glossy yacht version. This was a horrible little old boat, rocking hard in the wind, groaning with every wave. And we loved it. Steven, especially, thrived in the chaos, grinning with every spray of salt water.
The adventure carried us to Kanlıca, where we recovered with bowls of the town’s famous yogurt, dusted with sugar. Then to Kuzguncuk, where we met Emre, a miniature and sculpture artist whose tiny workshop, Muhayyer, charmed everyone.
And finally, the grand finale: drinks by the Maiden’s Tower as the city lit up, followed by a late-night hop to Kadıköy, where we ended the night in Revolte Bar with another friend of ours, guide Rubil, joining in for a toast.
That was Day 2: archaeology, croissants, tulips, a terrible boat, yogurt, art, and more drinks than we care to count. Pure Istanbul.
Day 3 (April 17th) - Old Town, Hookah & Beyoğlu Nights
After two days of chasing hidden corners, it was time to give Steven and Melanie the Old Town classics. And who better to lead the way than Ömer?
We started with the legend itself: Hagia Sophia. No matter how many times you’ve seen it in photos, nothing prepares you for stepping under that massive dome. Steven lingered with his camera, chasing the perfect play of light across the mosaics, while Melanie just stood still for a moment, overwhelmed by the sheer scale of it all.
Lunch followed — simple, tasty, and perfectly timed — before diving underground into the Basilica Cistern. With its endless marble columns reflected in still waters, it felt like entering another world. Back in the daylight, Ömer led us across the Hippodrome, once the roar of chariots, now a calm square layered with centuries of memory. And of course, no Old Town circuit is complete without the Blue Mosque, its serene interior balancing out the energy of the city outside.
But this is The Other Tour, so we don’t just stop at monuments. We wound our way to Gülhane Şark Sofrası, a hidden gem where hookahs and drinks flow as easily as the conversation. Glasses clinked, smoke curled lazily into the air, and everyone leaned back into the moment. Steven finally set down his camera, Melanie laughed at the banter, and the day’s history softened into an evening of pure vibe.
And just when we thought it was time to call it, Istanbul pulled us back into its current. Before long, we were in Beyoğlu, tucked into a corner café, ordering another round. This time, we had company: Burcu, another one of our wonderful guides, dropped in for a while. Stories, laughter, and the warmth of friendship filled the table, stretching Day 3 late into the night.
That was Day 3 — the monuments checked off, the city’s history absorbed, and the night ending the only way it should: in Beyoğlu, with drinks, friends, and laughter.
Day 4 (April 18th) – Off Beat, From Balat to the Bosphorus
We started with a public ferry ride into the Golden Horn, watching the city slip by as the water carried us past shipyards and painted wooden houses. Cameras clicked nonstop as we drifted by Fener and Balat, their colorful facades glowing in the afternoon light.
We got off in Ayvansaray, right by the looming city walls. Now, technically these weren’t the great 5th-century Theodosian Walls of Constantinople, but later fortifications. Did I tell Steven and Melanie that? Of course I did. Did they listen? Not a chance. They were too busy taking photos and laughing. And honestly, that was the better choice. 😂
From there we dove deeper into Balat itself. Narrow streets, laundry overhead, churches and synagogues tucked side by side — the neighborhood buzzed with life. In the heart of the old Jewish market we found Fatinye, a little jewelry shop sparkling with handmade pieces. Steven didn’t hesitate: he picked out a gift for Melanie. A small, timeless moment in a city built on centuries of stories.
But Istanbul never sits still. Soon we were back in the thick of it at the Spice Market, where the air was heavy with cinnamon, saffron, and sumac. Steven hunted for photos among the pyramids of dried fruit and spices, while Melanie tried her hand at bargaining. From there we climbed up to the Arasta Bazaar, a calmer, cozier market behind the Blue Mosque.
By evening, we were in Fuego, a favorite little spot for pre-drinks. There we met up with Ömer, fresh from guiding his own tour, along with his clients. Glasses clinked, the day’s stories spilled across the table, and the night was just getting started.
But Istanbul never sits still. Soon we were back in the thick of it at the Spice Market, where the air was heavy with cinnamon, saffron, and sumac. Steven hunted for photos among the pyramids of dried fruit and spices, while Melanie tried her hand at bargaining. From there we climbed up to the Arasta Bazaar, a calmer, cozier market behind the Blue Mosque.
Day 5 (April 19th) – The Real Deal: Caves, Chaos & Kebab
If the first four days were a slow build, Day 5 was the real deal. This time we pushed far west, out past the tourist circuits, into neighborhoods like Yeşilköy and Florya, where Istanbul leans into the sea and life moves at a different rhythm.
We started with a huge Turkish breakfast — plates of cheese, olives, fresh bread, honey, and endless tea. The kind of spread that sets the tone for an unforgettable day. For Melanie, an Orthodox Christian, the morning carried extra meaning as we stepped into a few of the area’s historic churches. Quiet, beautiful, and full of memory, they offered her a personal connection to the city’s spiritual layers.
From there, we traveled even further back in time — way back — to Yarımburgaz Cave, one of the oldest known caves in the world, with traces of human habitation stretching back hundreds of thousands of years. Walking into that darkness felt like stepping into the raw beginnings of humanity itself. Steven couldn’t put his camera down; Melanie stood in awe. With Soner driving and joining us, the day felt like a family outing — stories, jokes, and discoveries rolling one after another.
And then, somehow, the day flipped again. We found ourselves in the Chora Church area, then racing down the Golden Horn hills, literally running to catch the ferry from Fener to Kadıköy. We made it just in time, laughing, breathless, and still snapping photos along the way.
The evening belonged to Kadıköy. We walked, we drank, we laughed, weaving through its buzzing streets until we spilled into Moda, the bohemian corner where life always feels a little freer.
Finally, we boarded the ferry back across the Bosphorus to Karaköy — the city glowing all around us — to finish the night the only way Steven would have it: with kebabs. Not just any kebabs, but from his favorite kebap place in Istanbul. The smoky grill, the late-night energy, the laughter at the table — it was the perfect seal on a day that felt more like a marathon than a tour.
That was Day 5: breakfast by the sea, Orthodox churches, ancient caves, mad dashes through the Golden Horn, Kadıköy nightlife, Moda breezes, and a kebab feast in Karaköy. Chaotic, exhausting, and absolutely unforgettable.
Day 6 – Pashmina Alert & A Sweet Farewell
Every trip has its finale, and Day 6 was ours. After caves, cruises, churches, and chaos, it was time to wrap things up the Istanbul way: with shopping, eating, and just a little sparkle.
We began in the Old Town, climbing up to the rooftop of Seven Hills Restaurant for those iconic shots with Hagia Sophia in the background. Steven snapped away, Melanie posed like a natural, and the city stretched wide behind them.
Then it was back into the bazaars. At the Arasta Bazaar, the mission was clear: pashminas. Every time someone spotted a new one, the battle cry rang out: “Pashmina Alert!” Before long, bags were full, scarves were stacked, and even the shopkeepers were laughing with us.
The shopping spree didn’t stop there. We ducked into Nakkaş, one of Istanbul’s finest jewelry houses, where the sparkle was irresistible. A little bling bling was added to the collection — a fitting finale after days of adventure.
From there, it was back across the bridge to Karaköy, where no farewell is complete without a visit to Güllüoğlu. High-quality baklava, packed and ready for the road, sealed the deal on Istanbul’s sweetest souvenir.
And finally, the curtain call: drinks with the crew at the Peninsula Hotel. A fancy setting, laughter echoing through the lounge, and the feeling that we weren’t just closing a trip — we were closing a chapter of friendship.
But Steven had one last Istanbul ritual to fulfill. The night ended, as it always should in his book, with a plate of smoky, juicy kebabs at his favorite kebab place in Istanbul. The perfect, flavorful period at the end of a six-day love letter to the city.
That was Day 6: rooftops, pashmina alerts, jewelry bling, baklava for the road, cocktails in style, and one final kebab feast. A farewell written in flavor, laughter, and friendship.
Day 7 – Hugs, Goodbyes & A Football Detour
wwAll great adventures have to end, and Day 7 was our turn to say goodbye.
In the morning, Ömer and I met Steven and Melanie for one last hug before we loaded them into the van for their airport transfer. It was bittersweet — after a week of caves, cruises, bazaars, kebabs, and chaos, it felt strange to think the city would go on without them in it.
But in true Istanbul fashion, even the goodbye came with a twist. Because Ömer wasn’t just there to wave them off — he actually rode in the van with them. Why? Simple. He needed a lift to the stadium, where he was heading for a football match. Only in Istanbul do airport farewells turn into football drop-offs.
So the last memory Steven and Melanie have of us isn’t teary goodbyes, but laughter in a van, with Ömer excited about the match and everyone joking all the way to the edge of the city.
That was Day 7: hugs, jokes, and one very Istanbul-style farewell.